Here's a new version
of "Gorilla" duct tape
scaled down size (about
7/8" wide) - perfect for a
motorcycle tool kit
"Tinning" copper wire before soldering or crimping to connectors
nce the bolt is secure, the wrench can be
withdrawn with the tape still stuck to the head. If
your space is even more restricted, this technique
also works with an open-end wrench.
hen soldering a multi-strand wire to a connector it's
considered good practice to "tin" the newly bared
wire end first. This coats about two-thirds of the
exposed copper strands with a thin layer of solder. It
has to be kept thin in order to fit into the connector in
use so you definitely don't want excess solder here.
It's also best to elevate the other end of the wire so
gravity keeps the solder from wicking up past the
insulation which can cause vibration-induced fatigue
breakage of the wire there later down
o get the solder to flow properly, I heat the bare wire end with the hottest
(chiseled) tip of the gun and feed the solder into the area where the two meet.
The resulting ball of liquid solder will conduct heat to the wire and start the
solder flowing. Finish by melting the solder directly onto the wire with gun tip
still in place and keeping the insulated end elevated. Less solder is best here.
If you get too much, reheat the wire then quickly sling off the excess while it's
molten but not on the kitchen floor please.
I like to tin my
to British bullet
may have to be
drilled out a bit
How to spot the good "old"
soldering guns from the
"L" bends in the
tips secured by
are the signs of
good old Weller soldering
gun - avoid the later ones
that use grub screws
The PRE everything-made-in-China
Weller soldering guns are way better
than ones made later. To spot a good
"old" one, look for the
earlier style of
hard-plastic housing. Most
have the ends
of the soldering
held by hollow locking
Be sure to
the locking bolts on a new tip
bend the ends.